Find out how her daughter’s milk allergy 18 years ago led Gill Pateman from Pontrhydygroes in Ceredigion to becoming a cheesemaker.
“When she was born, my daughter – who’s now 27 – had an allergy to cows’ milk. We’d just moved to this smallholding and had a few cows but in order to overcome the allergy, I bought our first goat – Sarah.
By the end of the year she’d had a kid, Stella, and by the end of the following year she’d had twins. My daughter’s eczema had improved. However my family were getting thoroughly sick of a daily diet of rice puddings and egg custard!
Having been a home economics teacher, I had experimented with making cheese in the past. As we had all this milk, I decided to give it a go. I experimented for about two years with various cheese recipes. I eventually came up with this hard cheese which was quite a departure from the traditional goat soft cheese.
The main reason behind this was that living on a remote smallholding in the Welsh mountains could be problematic during the winter months. During the 1980s, the winters were quite hard and of course this disrupted distribution. I had to come up with a cheese with a longer shelf-life. Also during my market research, I found out that there was a call for something different.
When we started selling Merlin cheese, there was a lot of soft goats’ cheese being produced in West Wales. But a lot of them fell by the wayside with the advent of stricter environmental health rules.
We used to milk 200 goats as well as produce the cheese. However, after an accident in the milking parlour, I suffered concussion and things had to change.
Whilst I was recovering from my accident, the kids took over the production. They were getting up at 3am, milking, cleaning, going to school and making the cheese after coming home.
They were working really hard but it was just too much for them so a local farmer took our goats for milking, and we’ve stuck to that system ever since.
The children still help me with the business and we are currently building a new production set-up on the site of the original dairy.
Along with other cheese Welsh producers, we’ve established a co-operative called Cheese from Wales which is going from strength to strength. I’ve already been to New York, Barcelona, and London marketing our products. Welsh cheese has a very high profile, but this co-operative enables us to market all the various cheese as one and gives us a louder voice.”